Editor’s note: This week, Lighter Footstep’s Chris Baskind takes a look at something most of us use every day: soap. This post was originally published on July 31, 2007.

For more information on products that may contain sodium laureth sulfate, see Jennifer’s post on "natural" beauty products.

Well, they smell good, at least.

But take a look at the label of your favorite hand soap, shampoo, or body wash. The first listed ingredient is likely water — followed by sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) or some closely related compound.

Sodium laureth sulfate does the heavy lifting in most of the personal cleaning products on your shelf, right down to toothpaste. It’s a cheap and powerful foaming agent, and it’s foam’s ability to suspend dirt before it gets rinsed off which makes things clean. While concerns have been raised from time to time about sodium laureth sulfate’s long-term safety, nothing has really stuck. SLES is an entrenched part of our daily lives.

It’s also a detergent. While detergents are sometimes called "soaps," there’s a difference. Soaps are derived from fats; detergents are synthetic.

Detergents and Your Skin

As a detergent, sodium laureth sulfate is gangbusters. It may actually be too effective for some people, stripping the skin of necessary moisture. If you have dermatitis or certain other skin conditions, SLES may make things worse. And then there are all the other chemicals present in modern hand soaps and body washes.

Switching to real soap may provide relief to some people with sensitive skin. But it’s more than that — soap making is an art, and good soap can be an eco-friendly and relatively inexpensive luxury.

Soaps are different from detergents in that they’re derived from fats and oils. The Egyptians made crude forms of soaps — though they were used for things like wool making, not washing. Modern soaps are primarily fashioned from vegetable oils, and owe their basic formulations to Arab recipes dating from the 7th century.

Being Kinder to Yourself

Commercial soaps are comparatively poor in glycerine content and may dry the skin. But handmade soaps are rich in moisturizers and replenish the body’s oils as they wash away dirt. This is the sort of balance many people find refreshing after years of exposure to harsh, detergent-based personal care products.

There are as many varieties of handmade soaps as the oils which are used to make them. But the classic base is olive oil, which has been used therapeutically for centuries. Olive oil contains oleic acid, linolenic, and alpha-lenolenic, — which assist skin in the natural production of prostaglandin — along with a variety of antioxidants. Other common soap making oils include palm, jojoba, almond, and coconut.

While many natural soaps are unscented — a good thing for people with sensitive skin — they’re often scented with combinations of aromatic oils and colored by natural dyes and clays. These ingredients can sometimes produce allergic reactions, so pay attention to what’s in your soap and how you react to it. But it’s variety of traditional soaps which lends them so much charm: their colors, scents, and textures.

Where to Find Natural Soaps

Switching from detergents to natural soaps also provides an opportunity to support local artisans. In addition to well-known national brands such as Kiss My Face, your neighborhood natural foods store or gift shop probably stocks soaps made in your own region. Craft shows are another place to meet area soap makers. And a quick Google search for natural soaps will yield plenty of online options.

So get the chemical detergents off your shelf — and enjoy the eco-friendly world of natural soaps.

Facts: Some natural, organic beauty products are exactly what they claim to be; however, many of the trusted brands featured in health food stores and coops contain harmful ingredients and/or are not 100% natural. Anyone can claim their product is natural and/or organic, as there are no federal certifications or safety testing for beauty products. There are no official guidelines as to what constitutes a natural product, and even though a beauty product may contain certified organic ingredients, it may not be 100% natural. Some beauty products labeled organic, contain only a single digit percentage of organic ingredients.

Rebecca recently wrote about beauty products in Tip o’ the Day: Cosmetics that Cause Concern. She advised readers to visit the Environmental Working Group’s cosmentic data base Skin Deep, which provides analysis of many beauty products. When consulting this site, I became concerned when I saw many of the “natural” beauty products I purchased at our local coop were rated higher than I expected for toxicity. By reading labels, I discovered many of these brands utilize ingredients that are not natural or may only be derived from natural ingredients. According to Skin Deep FAQ, “It is often difficult for us to identify which ingredients in products are truly organic, since “organic” is a generally marketing term used by many in the cosmetic industry to imply that the product is natural.”

Let’s look closely at one such “natural” body product I use every day. Alba Body Lotion made by Avalon Natural Products received a score of 8 out of 10, according to Skin Deep. Here are the ingredients from the packaging, some of which are organically grown:

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, BENZOPHENONE-3. INGREDIENTS: CERTIFIED ORGANIC HERBAL INFUSION OF CHAMOMILE (CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA), ECHINACEA (ECHINACEA PURPUREA), GREEN TEA (CAMELLIA SINENSIS), LAVENDER (LAVANDULA OFFICINALIS) AND ROSE HIPS (ROSA CANINA), ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, SWEET ALMOND OIL (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS), CETYL ALCOHOL, SILICA, VEGETABLE GLYCERIN, CERTIFIED ORGANIC ALOE BARBADENSIS, ORCHID EXTRACT (CYMBIDIUM GRANDIFLORUM), ALPHA-HYDROXY ACIDS OF GLYCOLIC (SUGAR), LACTIC (VEGETABLE) AND ASCORBIC (CITRUS FRUIT), BOTANICAL FRAGRANCE (PARFUM), METHYL/PROPYLPARABEN, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE AND TOCOPHEROL (VITAMIN E).

The fragrance is considered to be of the highest concern for hazard, but the ingredient that stands out as the most unnatural is methyl/propylparaben. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) reports methyl and butyl parabens and certain preservatives have been linked to metabolic, developmental, hormonal, and neurological disorders, as well as various cancers. “True organic personal-care products would not contain preservatives,” says Diana Kaye, cofounder of the organic care line Terressentials. According to Wikipedia, methyl/proplylparaben belongs to the paraben family, “Parabens are a group of chemicals widely used as preservatives in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries…. Their efficacy as preservatives, in combination with their low cost…probably explains why parabens are so commonplace.”

Another common ingredient used in “natural” beauty products is sodium laureth/lauryl sulfate (SLES/SLS). This surfactant is derived from coconut oil and fell victim to an Internet rumor as carcinogenic. It is commonly used in “natural” beauty products, as well as engine degreasers and antifreeze. Although SLES/SLS do not cause cancer, it is in fact an eye and skin irritant. In people with sensitive skin (prone to dermatitis, acne, eczema, psoriasis and chemical sensitivity), the drying property of SLS/SLES can cause flare-ups or may worsen existing conditions. This has been my experience with my son, who’s eczema disappeared after only three days on SLS free soap. As the Natural Health Information Center warns us, “Do not believe that just because a product is labeled as “natural” it is free from SLS or SLES. Most common brands of “Natural” or “Herbal” shampoos and cleansers still use these harmful chemicals as their main active ingredient - check your labels!” Many “natural” beauty companies stand by the use of SLS/SLES, such as Tom’s of Maine (now owned by Colgate/Palmolive). Other companies, such as Aubrey Organics, question its safety. Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps has put together a video using a forensic drug test to demonstrate how many, “Companies mislead consumers in conflating their detergent-based products with ecological biodegradable soaps, even calling these synthetic detergent products ‘organic’. Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps are real soaps made from real organic oils, while these other so-called ‘Soap’ products are detergents made from petroleum and conventional vegetable material. They are not soap, they are not organic, they are not natural.” Although SLS/SLES is derived from coconut oil, and many “natural” companies will place coconut in parentheses on the label behind SLS/SLES, it is not considered natural by all. In Germany, where there is an effort underway to label cosmetics and personal care products as certified natural, formulations containing sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate cannot be certified natural.

Read the Label!You can take action on this issue by signing EWG’s petition in support of government-mandated safety testing of product ingredients. Alternative products do exist that are truly natural and organic, but the consumer will need to read labels, research ingredients, and review Skin Deep to find the safest, natural beauty products. The advises, “There are still no regulations that keep unethical body care companies from making fraudulent ‘organic’ labeling claims outside of the USDA organic certification process… As a consumer, if you purchase a body care product that claims to be organic but does not have the USDA certified organic symbol, you have no way of knowing how much (or how little) organic content that product actually has.”

For a newborn, breastfed baby, some of the first toxins that enter his or her body with will notPhoto by David Hofmann be from the food he or she eats, but from the products applied to his or her skin. The skin is considered the "largest organ in the body", and infants under six months old skin is very sensitive. The natural baby beauty product market has grown and expanded recently, along with the organic baby food industry. The following our five natural beauty products for babies based on my family and friend's experiences raising our babes. These products are recommended based on value and quality, as all of the items are cruelty-free.

1. Weleda Calendula Diaper Care Cream: If your child gets a bad diaper rash, this is the natural product you want to use. It relieves and heals the rash fast! Some of the ingredients are zinc oxide, beeswax, biodynamic calendula flower extract, organic chamomile flower extract, lanolin, sweet almond oil, sesame seed oil, and water. A 2.8 ounce tube costs $10.00. Weleda's motto is "In harmony with nature and the human being.

2. Country Comfort Baby Cream: This salve is great for mild diaper rash and soothing chafed skin. If your child is prone to diaper rash, it can be applied at every changing as a barrier cream. Country Comfort Baby Cream is made of pure oils of safflower & hazelnut/pecan, beeswax, lanolin, avocado & apricot oils, chamomile, chickweed, comfrey, calendula, golden seal, St. John's Wort, myrrh gum, aloe vera, vitamin E. The only drawback to this salve is that some individuals may have reactions to the nut oils. A two ounce jar costs about $5.89.

3. Nature's Gate Kids Spf-30 Sunblock Lotion: With a gigglberry scent, a drawback for some, this sunscreen is water resistant and highly protective. Made with many natural ingredients such as certified organic lavender, echinacea, coffee, horsetail, St. John's Wort, rosemary, etc;, this product does contain ingredients that are difficult to pronounce. There are better sunscreen products for children available, but they usually cost twice as much and can be hard to find. Four ounces of Nature's Gate Kids Spf-30 sunscreen retails for $9.00. For 27 years, Nature's Gate has been developing personal care products based upon botanical remedies. It is recommended that children under six months old should not use sunscreen because of the possible risk of the absorption, metabolism and excretion of the ingredients. The American Academy of Pediatrics states, "in situations where the infant's skin is not protected adequately by clothing, it may be reasonable to apply sunscreen to small areas, such as the face and the back of the hands." It is best if prolonged sun exposure can be avoided for children under six months.

4. Tushies Wipes Unscented: The greenest solution to diaper changes is to use wash cloths and water to clean your child's bottom. This may be difficult away from home when diaper wipes are convenient. Many children have adverse reactions to diaper wipes that contain chemicals and citric acid. Tushies Wipes are gentle and alcohol free. The contain water, aloe vera, vegetable derived glycerin, allantoin, panthenol, vitamin E, tartaric acid, and potassium sorbate. A package of 80 wipes costs about $4.30. Tushies were created for sensitive skin babies and parents concerned about their babies; skin.

California Baby5. California Baby Calming Botanical Shampoo and Body Wash: This product does not contains sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). SLES is derived from coconuts and can be an skin irritant. SLES is the subject of an urban legend about shampoos causing cancer. Many natural companies, like Tom's of Maine, support their use of SLES, where as others, like Aubrey Organics, debates its safety. California Baby Calming Botanical Shampoo and Body Wash is available in a bulk size of 17.5 ounces (larger sizes are available) for $17.50. This product has even been reported to heal eczema and cradle crap! California Baby was created when the founder Jessica Iclisoy "went into full protective mom mode. Like all new moms, she wanted her baby to live in the safest environment possible, so when she discovered some of the questionable ingredients in many mainstream baby toiletry products, she sought healthy alternatives."

There are many great natural beauty companies not represented in his list, and there are probably better products out there. The discussion about diapers has been omitted here, but you can read about the benefits of cloth diapers on GNM Parents. Many of these product selections were based on local availablity, but as the market expands, so will accessibility to natural baby beauty products. Hopefully Green Options readers will leave comments about their favorite natural beauty products for children.